Difficult as it is to imagine, designer ready-to-wear is a relatively recent development. In the past, many women regularly worked with dressmakers and tailors on their day to night wardrobes. Today the made-to-order experience (which is starting to make a comeback as a sustainable means of production) is often reserved for really special occasions, especially weddings. Yet it’s not only brides who are desiring “heirloom quality” clothes, or a personal fashion experience. A just-launched collaboration between wedding platform Over The Moon and Patricia Voto’s New York label One/Of, is an open invitation to give it a try.
“For many years, Patricia was one of the best-kept secrets in the fashion industry—particularly when it comes to bridal,” says Vogue’s wedding editor and Over The Moon founder Alexandra Macon. Indeed, on my first visit to the designer’s studio she was working with a bride-to-be. This capsule does include some all-white options that could be worn for tying-the-knot in a more informal ceremony or changing into for dancing, but it could also be described as wedding adjacent. There are pieces that would work for wedding guests, or for going to a graduation party or other ceremony.
Like all One/Of pieces, these are tailored to the individual and are constructed of existing materials–in this case ones that are exclusive to the collaboration. “Everything is made with luxury, limited supply reclaimed fabrics, so there is a clear sustainability focus, which is heartening,” notes Macon.
At Over The Moon’s request, Voto has tweaked some of her existing silhouettes. “I feel like they’ve fine-tuned and curated a very specific look of really feminine and kind of sweet elements,” says Voto. The designer, who has a weakness for warp prints, leaned into a romantic aesthetic, using pretty “Monet florals” for many pieces, including what might be Macon’s favorite, the slimline, ’50s-ish Beatrice dress.
The Betti bra is sure to be a popular piece. “I’ve been encouraging a lot of evening separates lately because I don’t want people to feel like [made-to-order] is a ‘one and done’ [kind of thing]; they wear [a piece] to this one event or occasion and that’s it,” explained Voto on a Zoom call. The designer also has a feeling for wider, waist-defining belts and clean necklines, which she creates by moving straps as close as possible to the shoulders.
It’s easy to see how these special pieces could be dressed down, too. A flowery straight skirt could be paired with an of-the-moment tank top and flat sandals; the bra worn under a boyfriend blazer for a dinner or brunch date. Even the most extravagant look, the off-the-shoulder Billie dress, could potentially be layered over jeans. There are many ways to create memorable outfits, but the special feeling of wearing something made just for you is what One/Of and Over The Moon want more women to experience. “We spend a lot of time sitting with clients and asking, ‘What do you gravitate towards?’ ‘What do you want to highlight?’ and really focusing on making something that they feel like they contributed to [making],” says Voto. “ I think what I’m doing with these clients directly is exactly what I was doing with creative directors, for the brands that I’ve worked for.”